Self-drive

Military Heritage in Kurzeme

During the Soviet era, Latvia was the western border of the USSR, and that made it a strategic location in which lots of military resources were concentrated. During the Soviet occupation, there were more than 1,000 Soviet military units in Latvia, and they controlled some 600 facilities equalling to more than 10% of the territory of the Latvian SSR. In other words, Latvia was behind the Iron Curtain for nearly half a century. Border guard posts, tank bases, aviation bases, military airfields, storage facilities for weapons and munitions (including nuclear missiles), military espionage facilities and other, similar entities were mostly centred on the shore of the Baltic Sea, where there was a special frontier regime. It was just 20 years ago that people were allowed to be on the beach only during sunlight and in very limited areas. Sand on the beach was always ploughed, and giant spotlights lit up the shoreline to seek out border regime violators who were more imagined than real. There were border guard towers all along the shore, with military personnel monitoring every step that local civilians took. Along the roads in the seaside regions, there were guard posts which one could pass only with special (and temporary) passes.
Several unique objects have survived since the Soviet era. For instance there is nothing similar to the Irbene radio telescope for several thousand kilometers. By contrast, the unique Skrunda radar station, alas, was blown up, and Soviet submarines were cut up into scrap.

(4 days, ~700 km)

This is a route for active hikers and bicyclists who like to look at natural and human landscapes and are interested in the twists and turns of Latvian history.

Practical information:

To book accommodation there are options to choose from - hotels in towns, country houses, self-catering cottages or guesthouses
The route may be changed and additional sight seeing objects added to it

Read more about protected nature areas en route in the description below.

Route description/ map

Points of interest:

1st day/ Riga- Dobele- Saldus (~130 km)

The Skulte aeroplane - in the village of Skulte is the site of a rare monument
The Beberbeķi Nature Park - established primarily to protect the “green zone” of Rīga
A memorial park to the Christmas Battles - it is worth climbing the viewing tower
The Dobele tank base and Gardene - one of the largest tank bases of the Baltic Military District in Soviet times
The Īle partisan bunker - anti-Soviet partisan bunker in the forests of Īle
The Zvārde base - aviation target practice base
The Zvārde Forests Nature Park - vast forests presenting rich biodiversity in the area of former military territory

Accommodation in Saldus

2nd day/ Saldus- Liepāja (~ 140 km)

The Skrunda army base - inaccessible and guarded where famous Skrunda radar station was located
The Skrunda Ponds - important for migrating water birds which nest here
The Embūte Nature Park - the lovely hillocks are there to protect the local landscape, habitats and species. On the way from Embūte eco-tourism center to Embūtes castle hill there is a viewing platform located
The Vaiņode airfield was one of the largest military airfields of the Soviet army in the Baltic republics
Liepāja: The Karosta Prison - we don’t want to describe this place – just go and take a look!
In the evening: Stroll from the Northern breakwater of Liepāja to the Northern forts (around 4.5 kilometers in each direction): the No. 3 coastal defence battery, the No. 23 coastal defence battery and the North forts
Lake Liepāja - one of the most important lakes for nesting and migrating birds along the shores of the Baltic Sea. Remnants of the unique Liepāja fortification system can still be seen around the lake.

Accommodation in Liepāja

3rd day/ Liepāja- Ventspils

A bike route via Liepāja. Route: Diver training centre-Naval officer centre - Northern breakwater - Northern forts (if you didn’t take the hiking route cited above) - Fortress canal - Lunette with a view of Lake Tosmare - Central fort - Submarine base - Stage - Karosta canal - Kalpaks bridge

The Ziemupe zenith missile base - abandoned military site

The Ziemupe Nature Reserve - was set up to protect the diverse shoreline biotopes that are found here
The firing rage at Skujnieki - was used for summer sports and firearms training back in the day

The Cirpstene zenith missile base - a visually interesting and impressive territory near the shore

Accommodation in Ventspils

4th day/ Ventspils- Tukums- Rīga (~ 160 km)

A bicycle route around Ventspils. Route: Seaside Open-air Museum - Former Soviet coastal batteries - Zenith missile brigade and base - Army shoreline road - Ventspils airport (former USSR aerodrome) - Lembergs Hat - Army village for border guards, communications officials and zenith missile staff - Former military hospital - Seaside Open-air Museum

The Irbene radio telescope - site of various military units and objects, including the radio telescope used for anti-espionage
The Lt Roberts Rubenis Battalion Museum - restored settlement and bunker of the No. 2 Brigade of the Rubenis Battalion
The Ancient Abava River Valley Nature Park - one of the most expressive terrains in this part of Kurzeme
The Tukums airfield - the site of countless legends from the Soviet era

Departure to Riga

This symbol marks a NATURA 2000 territory or specially protected natural territory. NATURA 200 territories were set up by European Union member states as a network of specially protected environmental territories. Latvia already had such territories when it joined the NATURA 2000 system, and the aim is to protect rare and endangered species of animals and plants, as well as their biotopes and habitats. There are more than 336 NATURA 2000 territories in Latvia at this time.

Information & accommodation booking - phone: +371 67617600, e-mail: lauku@celotajs.lv

This project is partly financed by the European Union (ERDF) within the Baltic Sea Region Programme